The D789 road in Cotes D'Armor can hardly be described as one of the great transport arteries of northern France, as it winds it way north from Paimpol. Slightly inland from the coast there are tantalizing glimpses of the coastal waters dotted with small islands, such as Ile St. Rion, but the road signs point towards Ile de Brehat.
Having passed through Ploubazlanec, the road dips towards the sea and suddenly a superb vista of islands, reefs, lighthouses and narrow channels with fast tidal streams, is revealed. The highlight in this view is Ile de Brehat, one of the main attractions of the Breton coast.
Leaving Pointe de l'Arcouest on a winter morning
Its coastal waters are ideal for exploring by kayak, and the interior on foot or bike. The island lies at the junction between two different coastal environments, to the south are the open waters of the Baie de St Brieuc, whilst to the west are the inlets and reefs of the Cote de Granit Rose. Brehat is sheltered by a number of reefs plus to the west, the magnificent geomorphological feature of the Sillon de Talbert.
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La Croix Lighthouse
The normal, and probably easiest departure is the Pointe de l'Arcouest. There is a large car park which for more most of the year has plenty of available space and is free, apart from in the height of summer. A number of small beaches allow easy access to the water and although the tidal range is larger than most paddlers are used to, even at low water springs the carry is not too far. The tidal streams run relatively fast in the channel between the mainland and Brehat and due allowance must be made. If possible, the first visit should coincide with neap tides. The other hazard in the channel is the volume of shipping. The ferries, fishing vessels and private craft combine at times to create the equivalent of a maritime motorway.
The main landing point on the island, for those craft that don't have the versatility of the sea kayak, is the south facing bay of Port Clos. Most paddlers will leave landing here until a later date, as the coastal attractions of the island will prove to be too great a draw. If possible, I always choose to head down the western side of the island first. If the tide is ebbing, it will be running north between Brehat and the smaller islands of Raguenes and Biniguet. A number of yachts will normally be at anchor in this area and as they swing on their moorings, they indicate the direction of the tidal flows.
Views of the west coast of Ile de Brehat
One of the most interesting features is visible once St Michel's Chapel comes into view, perched on its rocky knoll. There is a tidal mill, which was painstakingly restored in the 1990's and is well worth a visit. Just to the north is the large bay of Port de la Corderie, which virtually slices the island into two halves - a small causeway joining the two sections of the island together.
From this bay, north and east, the nature of the coastline changes, the granite foreshore becoming more exposed to the erosive power of the sea. Numerous small offshore stacks and islets providing a range of possible routes, the exact path probably being dependent upon the nature of the swell on the day of the paddle. Glimpses of the Sillon de Talbert will be seen to the west plus possibly one of the most spectacular lighthouses of northern Brittany, Les Heaux de Brehat. The charms of this guardian of the eastern portion of the Cote de Granit Rose are for another visit; today as the coast trends east we turn our back on those features and head for the much smaller Pointe de Paon light.
Phare de Paon
It is likely that there will be a number of land based spectators along this stretch of coast, as it is a popular area for the numerous tourists who visit this small island to walk or cycle along the network of paths. Numerous small islets provide entertaining channels through to meander, the exact route dependent upon the height of the tide and swell. The north eastern corner is marked by Feu du Paon light. The lighthouse was built in 1949 to replace the one which was destroyed during the Second World War.
Off the east coast of Brehat, there are a number of small islands, and the small archipelago is a delightful place to dawdle through on a rising tide. The ever changing channels providing an enticing and stimulating arena for the discerning sea kayaker. After numerous visits to the island, I have never repeated a route through this area. It is clearly an area which has proved attractive for several thousand years as a group of early Christian monks settled in a ruined Roman building on Ile Lavret. Clear pools of water provide suitable holding ground for the numerous small craft which moor in the area.
La Chambre off the south east corner of the island
If time allows, it is worth landing. Port Clos is as good as anywhere and spending some time exploring the interior of the island is worthwhile. There are a couple of places to hire bicycles which are ideal for exploring the island's winding lanes. The small village of Le Bourg offering the opportunity for refreshments, Breton style.
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Men Joliguet, almost a lighthouse off the south coast
