St Brelades to Corbiere

How often are our eyes focused on paddling in distant waters with the result that we then miss out on the pleasure of exploring our local patch. I first launched at St Brelades, as a teenager, on Boxing Day 1969 to be precise. I paddled my brand new KW7 in circles across the bay. It was my first experience of a kayak having a mind of its own. Landing back at the slipway by the parish church, I was somewhat despondent and would probably have sold the kayak there and then if somebody had made me an offer.

Luckily nobody made an offer and over the next 35 years I have continued to explore St Brelades Bay and its environs, I still live barely a mile from where I first launched all those years ago. In the intervening period I have got to know its finer points and have been able to share its charms with a number of generations of sea kayakers. Today it is the most commercial of all Jersey’s bays, the shoreline dominated by a number of large hotels and possibly the best located Pizza Express in the British Isles, situated in the middle of the bay. During the peak summer months the beach is often crowded with both visitors and locals but a water borne escape to more deserted coastal locations is easily accomplished.

My paddle of choice is to leave from the western end of the beach; close to the parish church. Parking is limited so an early start is advised. The length of the carry can vary dramatically depending upon the size and state of the tide. Launching is always possible though, even at low water on the largest of springs. The small pier, much favoured as a jumping platform by the young people of the parish, provided shelter for a number of fishing craft in the past, today the craft moored there are more recreational in nature. From here it is about 2 miles to Corbiere, which is the south west corner of the island, marked by its distinctive lighthouse.

Heading west the hustle of the main bay is soon left behind. The first small bay which is entered has the name of Bouilly Port, although I am not certain that many people, even locals of the parish are aware of this. On the southern facing slopes, sheltered by a small stand of trees is the private cemetery of Jesse Boot, who married a Jersey girl named Florence Rowe. He is famous as the founder of Boot’s the Chemist. There are a few superb houses bordering the western side of the bay, one of which is the home of a former Formula 1 world champion, who clearly had an interest in sea paddling because there used to be a few sit on tops in the garden.

Looking east from here the view is truly superb. The wild rocky headland of Point Le Fret marks the south east limit of the bay. Its granite reefs exposed to any westerly swell, are frequently fringed in white. Following the coast to the north a dramatic granite buttress punctuates the hillside. This is the site of La Cotte de St Brelade, one of the most important Neolithic sites in Europe and the oldest inhabited site in Jersey. Prince Charles worked on the excavations here in 1968, whilst a student at Cambridge. The remains of mammoths and woolly rhinos have been found here and many of the finds are now on display at the Jersey Museum. A visit to the museum will help enhance the quality of any paddle in this area.

The small granite headland which marks the southern edge of Bouilly Port is marked by a conspicuous stack. It is normally possible to paddle through the gap unless it is low water springs or there is a very large swell running. In the summer months this is a great place to jump, with platforms of a variety of heights. On the headland is Beauport Battery, which was built in about 1870. It is one of the many examples of the way that the area has been modified by military architects. The sea walls stretching around to Ouaisne Bay, are the result of the German occupation in the 1940’s. In the late 18th century when the Island was at risk from an invasion by the French a number of Jersey Round Towers were built around Jersey, including the ones in St Brelades and Ouaisne, which are visible as we head out of the bay.

Turning west we enter one of Jersey’s most delightful bays, Beau Port. The steep path from the car park puts off a large number of visitors, but it is well worth the effort visiting the area on foot. On the western edge of the bay a large boulder is perched on top of the cliff; this marks the location of one the highest and most spectacular cliff jumping sites on the island. It is particularly high and should only be attempted by those people with considerable experience of such an activity. The vast majority of people will be more than satisfied with paddling around the base of the cliff.

Further west lies the dramatic offshore stack of the Grosse Tete, its flanks streaked white by the nesting shags. At various stages of the tide various narrow channels are available to the sea kayaker to explore, all allowing access to the west. This small bay is marked as Fiquet on the maps, again most people would be hard pressed to name this from memory. The bay is backed by some superb granite cliffs which are the haunt of a variety of birds at certain times of the year, keep an eye open for ravens and peregrines amongst others. Offshore are a small group of rocks, the Les Kaines, they attract any westerly swell which is running but in 1911 they attracted a far rarer phenomena, a passenger ferry. The SS Roebuck was heading for at full speed towards St Helier when it struck one of the reefs at high water. As the tide dropped she was left perched nearly 10 metres above sea level, surely one of the Channel Islands most spectacular wrecks. Fortunately she was refloated on the next high tide and towed to St Brelades Bay, where temporary repairs were carried out.

The next small headland has a steep east facing cliff known as Trespass Point by the climbers who venture into this area. Slightly further to the west is one of the sites of climbing history, “Chockstone Traverse” which received its first ascent by John Hunt of Everest fame in the early 1960’s.

The principal headland along this stretch of coast is Pt La Moye, its granite slabs a favourite area for shore based fishermen. There are numerous small quarries on the slopes, the rock from which provided paving stones for some of the areas of London. Just to the west of the headland is a deep gully, at the rear of which is a blow hole, La Fosse Vourin. At the end of the Second World War a large quantity of German materials were dumped into the blow hole from the cliff tops and so access is no longer possible. A number of small stacks provide entertaining routes close to the shore and there are a couple of places where there are complex cave systems which can be explored on foot. As Corbiere approaches a small railway line can be seen running down from the cliff top, this marks La Rosiere, the quarry where the desalination plant is located. It used to be easy to identify with a large chimney, but this was dismantled in the late 1990’s and now there is very little evidence of the reverse osmosis plant which changes sea water into fresh.

Corbiere lighthouse is now clearly in view, marking the south west corner of the island. Tides run fast and swells break heavily so approach the area with a certain degree of caution and if you have any doubts turn back towards to St Brelade. There will always be another day when the conditions are far friendlier. The lighthouse is the oldest concrete one in the world. It was built in 1874 and the light is visible from 18 miles away. It was rarely lit during the Second World War but after the cessation of hostilities it was relit on the 19th May 1945. Today it is probably the most photographed location in Jersey in fair weather and foul but more especially at sunset. The closest land to the west is Newfoundland so the marine sunsets are truly stunning.