Les Minquiers

Lying approximately 12 miles south of Jersey is a large reef which achieved notoriety in the 1950’s through the writings of Hammond Innes in “The Wreck of the Mary Deare”. Paddling to the Minquiers is easiest on neap tides because there are cross currents of over 4 knots on spring tides, yet spring tides are the best times to visit because of the huge expanse of reef which is uncovered by the dramatic rise and fall of the tide which can reach 12 metres on large springs.

The reef holds many challenges for those who approach in larger craft, their reputation goes before them, but as sea kayakers we are generally free to travel wherever we want. One advantage of their notoriety is that many boat owners steer well clear of their challenges so it is likely that they will be much quieter than many of the other reefs and islands in Channel Island waters.

At low water the drying area extends for nearly 25 square miles. The extremities are marked by a number of cardinal marks with such evocative names as the “South East Minquiers” buoy! In 1953 the International Court at the Hague gave sovereignty to Britain. An immediate result was that the French removed all their buoys with far more interesting names such as “Brisants du Sud” and “Les Sauvages”.

There are a number of small huts although they are not in such good repair as those on Les Ecrehous. In the late 18th and early 19th Century the reef was a hive of industrial activity. Maitresse Ile and Puffin Rock were originally joined and they provided a sheltered pool although the Royal Navy removed the ridge in the late 18th Century. Rock was quarried here and it provided the stone for Fort Regent in Jersey. All industrial activity has now ceased although there are numerous rock carvings remaining which are waiting to be discovered by the inquisitive visitor.

Just recently an opportunity arose to visit the reef on a larger tide but without the inconvenience of having to paddle the 24 mile round trip which is normally necessary to explore the delights of the area. We loaded six kayaks onto a RIB, which in a previous life had carried tourists around Ramsey Island, in Pembrokeshire and headed south from St Helier. Not at our customary 4 knots but at speeds in excess of 20 knots.

Within 30 minutes we were surging through the outer reefs and this was quickly followed by a rapid disembarking as we were eager to be on our way. The tide was flowing west and we utilised the current to ease our way through a spectacular marine environment. Crescent shaped sand banks and rocky reefs enclosed lagoons which were Caribbean in appearance. Crystal clear seas revealed underwater forests of various types of kelp. Inquisitive grey seals appeared along side our kayaks. This was sea kayaking at its finest.

All too soon we arrived at the western end of the reef where the RIB was waiting for us and within 40 minutes we were back in the main harbour at St Helier. In a little over 3 hours we had experienced what would normally take a weekend to achieve. You could say that we cheated a bit and perhaps weren’t quite true to our sea kayaking routes but it was fantastic way to spend a Sunday afternoon.